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David's Index
On this day, David recorded that we hiked 14 miles between 8:30AM and 7PM, ending up at 9800'.
 

Aug 18 -- Silver Pass -- A grand canyon -- Time for a Recess

I again did the stealth breakdown of my campgear while the others enjoyed the last bit of warmth in their bags and managed to be ready to go as soon as everyone else. We had the luxury of a morning fire. The morning ritual included stretching exercises which are essential when the first steps out of the camp are up a gonzo grade with a monster pack on. Once again I heard David talking about what tunes he had queued up to play, and was surprised at what a small MP3 player he must have, for I couldn't see it at all. We headed up the hill paralleling a series of picturesque meadows along the stream and soon took a short break at the intersection with a side trail to Papoose Lake. This was shot completely handheld.

 
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The next interesting feature was a lake which was quite beautiful, and had some llamas grazing along the shore. They were part of a packtrain which was camped here. It was amazing how much gear they had strewn about. We took a break here and I ate a snack.

 
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Next was the final ascent up Silver Pass. We zoomed up here fairly decent pace and ran into a snowpatch covering the trail just below the top. I detoured around it and suddenly found we were at the pass I had been looking forward to for many miles and many moons. We stopped and enjoyed the view, and shot a few pictures. I shot two panoramas from a small distance apart. I could have stayed here for hours, it was a wonderful, spiritual place where you could see immensely far.

 
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My companions departed as I shot the second from 100 feet west of the last one. I changed into my running shoes.

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We now descended into a long dry canyon. I caught up with David and we ran into a through hiker who was walking north in Tevas. Dave asked him what was his story and it seemed his boots had given out. He seemed in bad shape with a lot of dried blood. David gave him some dried fruit. We walked on and the trail kept crossing small streamlets. I filtered some water at one and snacked. Continuing on, I ran into Susan about where the trail dropped into a very pleasant meadow. A few minutes later I couldn't resist the excellent scenery and climbed out into the meadow. I thought I had seen Zach resting on a rock a little ahead of me but it turned out to be some random dayhiker.

 
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At the end of this meadow the scenery abruptly changed to a rock edge much like being at the top of Yosemite Falls. I scoped out the first overlook I came to but the view was not as dramatic as I knew it could be. I spotted another overlook, a rock pinnacle, and hurried on over. A little too quickly I guess because in my excitement I stumbled on the trail and nearly twisted my ankle. I found a way up to the top of it and waved to Zach and Susan who were tiny ants descending the trail down below. I later found out that they couldn't hear what I was saying and were not sure if I was in need of help or what. As I set up, David walked by on the JMT. I shot under very difficult windy conditions the valley below, called Pocket Meadow.

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I returned to the trail not quite the way I came, and ran down the descent to Pocket Meadow. My companions were evidently further ahead. The fabled nasty stream crossing here turned out to be easy. The trail now went downhill alongside the stream. I really noticed how it felt like Southern Sierra or even closer territory to LA now. More and more fishermen were raking the stream. Further down I caught up with David and we speculated whether we'd be able to see Lake Edison. We saw more and more aspens along here. We caught up with the rest of our group at the turnoff to Mono Pass from the JMT. As we were filtering more water here a gaggle of Boy Scouts trooped out.

It was an "historic" moment -- we were leaving the John Muir Trail. We headed uphill. I surveyed the new canyon we were entering from a large rock which had a good view. I thought I could find a better view from up ridge, but exploring it revealed nothing special. I got discouraged and didn't shoot the entrance to Mono Creek canyon at all, which I regretted for the next few miles as the view only got more choked up with trees. I was reminded of King's Canyon with its steep rock walls. The trail stayed inside of forested canopy for what seem like miles. My pack felt heavier and heavier and I noticed how the shoulder straps were not as padded and thick as most everyone else's packs. I said howdy to an old man carrying a canvas canteen. It turned out that he was a pack train operator whose horses had run away and he was walking out to Lake Edison. His customers were stranded up at Pioneer Basin. Eventually I came to a rise along the canyon bottom which was clear and shot a pano. Dave passed me while I was busy panning. We never were able to see Lake Edison.

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This section reminded me of many canyons on the east side of the Sierra Nevada, such as the trail to Barney Lake, or Molybdynite Creek canyon. There were many aspens and a very dramatic shift in vegetation due to the steepness of the canyon walls. It seemed to take forever to get to each "recess" or sidecanyon. Second Recess had a nice open area on a rock slab and a couple was setting up camp here. I caught up to Sue and Zach just as they were getting ready to leave. I filtered more water and ate a snack. I could have shot a panorama here but we were too pressed for time.

David and I met up again. We got slightly disoriented at a fork, but I followed my intuition and we managed to pick the right one. The sun had fallen behind the ridge, and the four of us were still not reunited. Finally after every minute of hiking seemed to grow into a hour, our lead party was waiting for us at a fallen log. We held a conference and decided to go for our original goal of the Third Recess. It seemed so far ahead of us away plowed onwards and finally reached a turnoff which had to be the one.

We scattered out looking for a good camp spot in the fading light. We found one not too far from a great stream. It was amazing how many trips we would make to this stream to filter water. That evening was quite chilly and I got out my gloves for the first time. This was the only occasion that David said he regretted only bringing shorts. We clustered around the food pit and it seemed like I made another miso soup convert in David too. Our dinners were taking twice as long to make since we had only the one stove working. We pondered the big climb out tomorrow and retired to our warm sleeping bags. I heard something go flitting about our site in the darkness but never managed to spot it with my flashlight.

     
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